Showing posts with label Gorse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gorse. Show all posts

Saturday, 5 November 2016

Gwaith 12: Ynys Y Fydlyn (10 Oct 2016)

Helo Pawb

As mentioned last year in my posting about Ynys Y Fydlyn, I learnt about its existence from my friend Grevel Lindop, who told me it was likely the last holdout of druids during the Battle for Ynys Môn. I felt a special connection to the site because of this history and decided to visit it again, even though I had not yet worked out a way to use it in my novel.

After 30 minutes of driving, I threw on my hiking boots, jacket and backpack and headed down the gravel path I had missed on my first visit. A short walk later, past gorse and bracken covered outcrops, through the smell of soft cowpats, and past the small lake at the back of the beach that is almost dried up at this time of year, I landed on the shingle beach of Ynys Y Fydlyn.
Bracken and gorse alongside the trail
The dried-up lake and the slopes of dead bracken
First view of Ynys Y Fydlyn
 As I wasn’t sure about the tide, I climbed along the rocks and slimy seaweed at the base of the eastern half of the island, which is no longer connected to the western half, and made my way to the westernmost point of the island. No wildflowers greeted me, as they did the previous visit, only soft, deep, hair grass and rocks stained and covered with pale green moss.

Part of the path across the top of the island
Below me was a rocky outcrop just above sea level, which I imagined would have seen druids and their supporters scrambling into the small willow-framed and horse- or bullock-hide covered small craft called cwrwgls (from which we get ‘coracle’) as they try to escape the approaching Roman soldiers.
The outcrop at the end of the western half of Ynys Y Fydlyn
Not long after I arrived, I looked to the north, from where a bitter wind was blowing, and noticed rain clouds developing. I hoped they might indicate a shower only. I was wrong. I dragged on my waterproof overpants and tried to wait out the rain, but it kept swirling around me with no let up. I left for the eastern section, as I knew there was an outcrop that might provide shelter. It did, so I sat out the storm and, when it eased, ate my lunch and meditated for a while. At one point, 20 or more pheasants burst out of the gorse and bracken at the top of the promontory opposite me and dropped down into the bushes at the base. There appeared to be no reason for this apparent panic, but I imagine a predator of some sort had spooked them.
View westward, from the inner isle, showing the inlet and the two island sections
My meditations and my explorations around site itself had prompted ideas, which I duly wrote down in my small notebook. As the tide started to turn I thought it time to head back home. However, when I reached the beach and double-checked my pockets, I realised I had dropped my small pouch with crystals and stones gathered from various places. I rushed back to the western section and found it where I had put on my overpants.
Tide flow across the inlet
Another of my colour and texture photos
As the tide wasn’t coming in that quickly, I stayed awhile and mused some more on the possible scene in the sixth century when the Romans stormed this last refuge of the druids. I wondered why the Celts had come here to launch themselves to Ierne (Ireland) or Ynys Manau (Isle of Man), when other places on Ynys Môn seemed closer to those destinations. I came up with some ideas, though they will need further thought before I use them in the book. What I can say is that if I flashback scene about the struggles at Ynys Y Fydlyn, I’ll set in a storm even more dramatic than the one I experienced, with the bellow and crash of waves on the rock below where the druids would be trying to launch their cwrwgls, while above them their warriors are fighting the Romans to their last breath.
Scene of past combat?
After giving thanks to the spirits of the past and of the place itself, I scrambled back to the shingle beach and, with pheasants diving into bushes as I moved past, strolled back to my car.
Last view of Ynys Y Fydlyn. Compare the clouds to the photo up the page
Odd arrangement of dragonflies on a fence post during my walk back
As always, I welcome your comments. All the best to whatever projects are giving you bliss.

Cofion Cynnes
Earl

Tuesday, 5 April 2016

Cyfaredd 20: Research on Ynys Môn: Day Three


Haia Pawb

This was my last complete day on Ynys Môn and it featured a mix of research and social activities.

The first thing I did was visit Oriel Ynys Môn, the museum and arts centre located in Llangefni. I had come to see the History Gallery, which gives an introduction to the island’s past through sound, imagery, reconstructions and real artefacts, including replicas of the finds from Llyn Cerrig Bach. After my conversations with Eflyn about her father’s discovery of these Iron Age artefacts and my visit to the site (during my previous trip to Ynys Môn), I wanted to see them myself, even if only replicas, the originals currently being held in St Fagan’s National Museum in Cardiff.

Replica of slave chain found at Llyn Cerrig Bach
Iron age artefacts
The History Gallery also contained finds and information about other aspects of Ynys Môn history and pre-history, including the Battle for Ynys Môn during the Roman invasion of the island circa 60AD.

Artist rendition of the battle
The exhibit for this battle included an audio of a translation of the report by the Roman historian Tacitus:

Along the shore stood the enemy in a close-packed array of armed men interspersed with women dressed like Furies in funeral black, with streaming hair and brandishing torches. Round about were the Druids, their hands raised to heaven, pouring out dire curses. The Roman troops were so struck with dismay at this weird sight that they became rooted to the spot as though their limbs were paralysed and laid themselves open to wounds. Then, bolstered by the encouragements of their commander and urging one another not to be afraid of this mass of fanatical women, they advanced with their standards, cut down all they met, and enveloped them in the flames of their own torches. After this a garrison was imposed on the conquered natives, and the groves devoted to their savage rites cut down; for it was part of their religion to drench their altars with the blood of captives and to consult their gods by means of human entrails.
Tacitus Annals XIV, 29-30

I then drove to Llanfair­pwllgwyngyll­gogery­chwyrn­drobwll­llan­tysilio­gogo­goch (apparently, at 58 characters the longest place name in Europe and the second longest official one-word place name in the world) to meet my Welsh teacher Anna and her husband Steve, who just happened to be back in Wales visiting family. (Anna teaches Welsh on a Tuesday night at The Celtic Club in Melbourne.)

Station sign, with approximate pronunciation
Translation of the name
After coffee at a café, we headed off to Ynys Llanddwyn, a small tidal island located at the far end of a pleasant beach near Newborough Warren. On the way there, we stopped off in blustery, drizzly weather to see Llys Rhosyr, one of the  Llysoedd or Royal courts of Llywelyn Fawr, Llywelyn the Great, Prince of Gwynedd in the 13th century. It is situated near Newborough Parish Church on the road leading to Ynys Llanddwyn.

Information board showing a reconstruction of some of the buildings on the site.
Part of the excavation.
Only a quarter of the site has been excavated at this time.
Another information board, showing the llys (court) layout

After we wandered around the site for a short while, the inhospitable weather sent us back to our car and we drove onto Ynys Llanddwyn.

The name Llanddwyn means ‘The church of St. Dwynwen’. Dwynwen is the Welsh patron saint of lovers, making her the Welsh equivalent of St. Valentine. Her feast day, 25 January, is often celebrated by the Welsh with cards and flowers. After various trials, as she tried to unite with her lover, Dwynwen retreated to the island to live the life of a hermit. There are ruins of her chapel on the island but, unfortunately, the tide was coming in after our walk along the beach and we couldn’t get to the island.

View of Ynys Llanddwyn as we walked along the beach, the drizzle having abated for a while.
The tide coming in
Close up of an outcrop near the island
Another one of my texture/colour studies
On the way back, we took one of the many paths through the sand dunes and discussed the vegetation and the birds around us. One thing I got out of the experience was the smell of gorse—like vanilla or coconut. For all my time in Wales and my interest in its flora, so I could use it in my writing, I realised I had paid more attention to the visual environment around me than to the other senses. Our conversation revealed the differences between two plants of similar colour blooms:

Gorse = a scent, yellow flowers, spikey vegetation
Broom = no scent, yellow flowers, no spikes

Gorse thicket near Aberystwyth
Gorse Inflorescence (source)
Gorse Spines (source)
Broom (source)
Broom flowers @ Ray Woods/PlantLife (source)
Afterwards, we went to The Ship Inn (formerly called Cei Bach, Little Quay and Hen Cei, Old Quay) at Red Wharf Bay for a late meal and discussions, with sampling, about whiskies and their trips to Speyside and Islay for various whiskey festivals and distilleries.

Location Map (source)
Traeth Coch (Red Beach), known in English as Red Wharf Bay (source)
The Ship Inn (source)
We then parted ways, Anna and Steve to head back to Wrexham and I drove back to the Harbour Hotel for my last night on Ynys Môn.

That’s it for now. As always, I hope you’re enjoying these posts and I welcome any comments.

Cofion Cynnes
Earl